Bikepacking the GAP

6 days · 356 miles · 8448 feet uphill · 27+ hours on bike · 200+ m&m's consumed · 2 dead legs

Chesapeake and Ohio Canal & Great Allegheny Passage trails

Handlebars and bar bag on the wooden boardwalk heading into the Paw Paw tunnel

Bikepacking

We have all seen cyclists out on the road and heard about multi day adventures of backpackers out in the mountains. But did you know there is subset of explorers who love both and combine them in what's known as bikepacking?

Follow along with me and a friend on two of the friendliest long distance trails (C&O and GAP) as we pedal our way from D.C. to Pittsburgh and explore the world of bikepacking.

The gear

What should I bring? What will I need? These are great questions for someone just starting out bikepacking! Here is a list of the gear I brought on the trip.

Flat-lay of all the trip's camping, cycling and camera gear laid out on a carpet

Cycling & Camp Clothes: Jerseys x 2, Cycling Shorts x 2, Cycling Shoes, Rain Jacket, Toiletries, Sunscreen, Mask / Sanitizer, Bug Spray

Hydration: Water Bottles x 3, Blocks x 6

Camp Gear: Hammock, Tarp, Bug Net

Cycling Gear: Head Unit, Lock, Lights, Spare Tubes / Repair Kit, Multi Tool, HR Strap

Misc Gear: Headlamp, Knife, Extra Batteries, Tie Downs, Journal, Charger, Gas Stove, Dry Bags, First Aid Kit

Not Pictured: Sleeping Bag, Bike, Sandals, Polar Pro ND's

Camera Gear: Canon EOS R, RF 24-70 & EF 50, Mavic Pro 2, Polar Pro ND's, GoPro

The bike

Grey Kona Rove gravel bike loaded with bags, side-on against greenery

Close-up of the bike's Horizon 47c 650B tire

For this trip, I partnered with a local Pittsburgh bike company, Golden Triangle Bike. They have a great selection of bikes ranging from hybrid, touring, E-Bike, and more. I used one of their gravel bikes, the Kona Rove. As a first time gravel rider, this was a perfect bike transitioning from a road bike. Smooth, similar geometry, and the 650B tires were excellent for the terrain along the trail. The bike came with bags, tools, and everything you need to get going.

If you are considering the trip, I would highly recommend them for their bikes, as well as information about the trails. They will even provide guided trips!

The companion

“A journey is best measured in friends, rather than miles.”
Tim Cahill

An adventure isn't complete without friendship. For this trip, I was thankful to be able to do it with my great friend, Dan. This is a trip he has been wanting to do for years and I was glad we could do it together.

Thank you Dan for all the work you put into the planning!

“I travel because I'd rather look back at my life, saying 'I can't believe I did that' instead of 'if only I had'.”
Florine Bos

The journey begins

Two loaded bikes and panniers packed into the back of a van — The trip started with loading up the bikes and driving to D.C. Even though considered a bit harder this direction, we wanted to end in Pittsburgh, at Dan's house, and be able to relax and not have to take a train to get home.

The Washington Monument across the water — Starting in D.C. made for a scenic trip as we cycled along the Mt Vernon trail from the airport to the National Mall.

The Lincoln Memorial — Starting in D.C. made for a scenic trip as we cycled along the Mt Vernon trail from the airport to the National Mall.

Two loaded bikes on either side of the C&O Canal Mile 0 stone marker — Make sure to take the time to find the C&O trail head. It is a little off the beaten path (you'll feel like you are going through the Thompson Boat center), but worth the quick detour.

Dan riding away down the packed-gravel towpath beside the canal — The trail started off with well packed gravel and a scenic ride along the canal.

Whitewashed stone lockhouse with a Canal Quarters sign on the fence inviting visitors to stay overnight — Not far out of D.C. we came across a lockhouse where you can stay! As we planned to camp throughout our trip, I didn't know you could stay in these. For someone looking to experience the C&O trail, but doesn't want to camp or wants to reduce the amount of weight they carry, this would be a great option!

Wide view of the Great Falls of the Potomac, whitewater pouring over rocks — The great falls are the first scenic view point along the Potomac River.

Closer view of the Great Falls cascades through the rocks

Great Falls cascade seen through the trees

Loaded bike parked in a bike rack at Great Falls — After you park your bike at the rack, I would suggest switching into some sandals for exploring the falls as it is a decent walk.

Let's take a break for water / food

Brown Chesapeake & Ohio Canal National Historical Park sign for Whites Ferry — When you are burning ~5,000 calories a day, it's important to keep hydrated and fueled throughout the trip. Especially in the summer heat!

Hand water pump at a C&O campsite with a green porta-potty behind

Along the C&O there were campsites roughly every 10 miles*. These sites had pumps with treated well water that we used to fill up along the way. These were amazing to have available to us. This was convenient and limited the amount of water we had to carry at any given time.

*One thing to think of, we didn't see water for the first 40 miles outside of D.C. Keep this in mind whether you are starting or ending, you will want to plan for this and have extra water.

Close-up of the pump's notice that the well water has been treated with iodine, trail blurred behind — The pumps are available seasonally and there are some other precautions due to COVID so make sure to check the following link for up to date information and general trail conditions https://www.nps.gov/choh/index.htm

Breakfast

Since we were starting early in the morning and always from camp outside of town, the easiest thing for breakfast was to grab something the day before that we could eat at camp. Most mornings were Pop-Tarts with a view.

Hand holding a Pop-Tart in front of the river

Snacks

Throughout the day and in between meals, it's important to maintain calories. You can use different snacks like granola bars, but my go-to for exercise is GU CHEWS. Easily digestible carbohydrates, dense calories, and key nutrients like electrolytes and amino acids make it a perfect choice for me. Oh and if you know me, an adventure isn't complete without Peanut M&M's.

Lunch/dinner

For the main meals, lunch and dinner, we would stop in the towns along the way and grab something. This allowed us to have larger meals without worrying about carrying the extra weight / supplies to cook with.

Takeout burger and fries with a Coca-Cola bottle on the grass

Back on the trail

Great blue heron standing on a fallen branch over a duckweed-covered canal — Wildlife along the trail

Two loaded bikes leaning against an interpretive sign by the river, with a dam in the background — There were various signs along the trail providing history about the canal and the lock system. A nice way to break up the ride!

Some sections required dismount to get over obstacles

And some sections had detours to get around damaged sections of the trail

Dan riding a concrete boardwalk section along the wide Potomac under blue sky — But most of the trail was breathtaking.

Next stop: camp

Wooden sign for Indian Flats Hiker Biker Campsite, Marble Quarry 4.4 miles — I was amazed at the availability and accessibility of campsites along the C&O. Roughly every 10 miles there were hiker/biker campsites... So what did these look like?

Hiker/biker campsite right off the gravel towpath with signposts, bikes, a porta-potty and a tent in the trees — The sites were right off the trail and consisted of basic amenities (porta-potty, picnic tables, water).

Hammock strung between trees at a towpath campsite — Typical camp setup

Alex and Dan playing cards at night by lantern light at a picnic table — Including card games into the night

Campsite trees opening onto the river at dusk — And most of the sites were right next to the water

The final stretch of the C&O

Stone portal of the Paw Paw tunnel with the wooden boardwalk railing leading in — And one of my favorite sights... the Paw Paw tunnel.

Inside the Paw Paw tunnel, brick walls in red and green tones with a railing along the towpath — This is a 3,118-foot-long canal tunnel on the trail. You have to walk through the tunnel as it has no lights, but it was a nice stroll and time to enjoy the tunnel. Look at those colors!

White canal lockkeeper's house beside a dry, grassy lock — A few more canal houses

Blue truss bridges over the river in Cumberland, Maryland, with church spires and the town behind — We had a small final push into Cumberland. This marked the end of the C&O and our "halfway" point on the trip.

Drone view of sunset over Cumberland and the gap in the ridges — The Cumberland Gap

The start of the GAP

Looking over the handlebars at the Great Allegheny Passage Mile 0 medallion in the brick plaza in Cumberland

With almost 2000ft of elevation gain in under 23 miles, the start out of Cumberland was the most "challenging" part of the ride in terms of climbing.

Railroad tracks in the foreground with a red barn and farm in the valley below — The trail follows tracks all the way up as there is a passenger train that brings people to the top for the beautiful views.

Weathered Cumberland Bone Cave interpretive sign with skull drawings — However, for me, cycling provides the ability to stop, explore, and enjoy the views as you go.

Dan riding out of a concrete tunnel portal in the woods — We continued to ride through tunnels (these were illuminated) which were a nice break from the heat with the cool concrete interiors.

Top-down drone view of the trail entering a tunnel through dense forest canopy — Seeing them from above with a Drone really provides a different perspective and just as beautiful.

Overlook of rolling green valleys under puffy clouds — The constant low grade and scenic views ALMOST made the pain of the "big climb" go away.

Mason-Dixon stone marker carved with the Penn and Calvert crests — As we reached the summit of the climb we came to a great spot to break and check out a historical site. Not only were we crossing from MD into PA, but it was also the Mason & Dixon line

Mason & Dixon Line obelisk with a loaded bike leaning on it — As we reached the summit of the climb we came to a great spot to break and check out a historical site. Not only were we crossing from MD into PA, but it was also the Mason & Dixon line

Trail tunnel under the road with murals and the Eastern Continental Divide sign above — Not far after, you come to the Eastern Continental Divide.

Camping on the GAP

Wooden arrow sign in Meyersdale pointing to tent camping and shower access

After the long climb, we decided to have a short day (mileage) and relax. Meyersdale was the closest town we decided to stop at.

Festival Park entrance gate, home of the annual Pennsylvania Maple Festival

One thing I noticed on the GAP vs the C&O was the accessibility of campsites within towns. This provided a nice change of pace where we could settle into camp before heading to dinner. On the C&O we would hit a town for dinner, then still have ~5 miles to cycle to camp.

A plate of huge pancakes at a diner — Highly recommend Donges Drive In if you like diners. Dinner and breakfast there sure hit the spot! For those who know me, you bet I went with pancakes for dinner!

The campsite was mostly grass for tents, but still had spots to hang hammocks!

Oh, and did I mention SHOWERS!

Decorative arch at the Stewart's Crossing campground entrance by the trail in Connellsville — Another example of a campsite in town, right off the trail. This was Stewart's Crossing Campground & Adirondack Shelters in Connellsville. Overall these are great options as they are still right on the trail and close to town for supplies.

Dan relaxing in an orange hammock strung by an Adirondack shelter — Another example of a campsite in town, right off the trail. This was Stewart's Crossing Campground & Adirondack Shelters in Connellsville. Overall these are great options as they are still right on the trail and close to town for supplies.

Personally, I liked the more rustic campsites as I love to camp. The great thing with the C&O and GAP is they have a variety of options from AirBnB's/Hotels, camps in town, or rustic camps.