Woman with a red fan sitting on a blue chair beside the tracks on Train Street
Journal · Travel · Hanoi, Vietnam

Hanoi Tracks

“Please note, this story covers street photography in Vietnam. I did not ask any of the subjects to pose on the tracks, as I do not condone portrait sessions on train tracks due to the danger and trespassing.”

Tourist or local

When visiting Vietnam's capital, Hanoi, it is hard to miss the famous "Train Street". After all, how often can you experience a train barreling down a residential street, just feet from where you stand. Although a sight to see, what I found most surprising was the vastly different experience you would have based on which way you turned onto the tracks from the main road. Turn right, you will be surrounded in a tourist world. Turn left, you will be surrounded by Vietnamese locals as they go about their day.

Woman cooking at her doorstep beside the rails

Tourist life

Cafes. Dozens of cafes line the track with chairs and tables out for tourists to stop at and enjoy a famous Vietnamese coffee. But don't get too comfy, because as the train approaches, the cafes quickly pack up shop to make sure everyone is at a safe distance.

Selfies. As you walk the street, be careful where you walk, not only because of the train, but you'll also have to watch out for everyone trying to capture the "perfect" selfie to show they were there!

Tourists walking along the tracks past trackside cafe tables Railway cafe front with an I love Vietnam flower sign and chairs set out on the tracks

Shops. Just like the cafes, you will find many shops along the track sporting everything from clothing to your typical tourist gifts.

Trains. Of course, the trains. A visit to Train Street wouldn't be complete without experiencing the train passing through the tight quarters. At the few times of day the train passes, you will see tourists lined up, backs against the wall waiting for the experience.

Ready

Time to get those selfies in! Throughout the day, some tourists can be seen wandering the tracks finding the "perfect pose", while others sit and enjoy a coffee and snacks at the cafes.

Cafes and tourists lining both sides of the tracks

Set

With minutes to go before the scheduled train passing, shop owners will scurry about stacking chairs and tables to move them into the small inside space of their cafes. The customers and all bystanders quickly form along the walls of the shops.

Go

Next up, the phones quickly emerge from everyone's pockets in order to capture the experience in a variety of photos and videos as the train blows the whistle and passes just three feet from you. The rumble of the train coming down the tracks and the laughing and excitement from everyone standing next to you, what an experience to feel!

Train approaching at night as the crowd presses against the walls Train rushing past the Railway Cafe sign

The local way

One of the most fascinating parts of traveling is observing the way locals live.

On Train Street, it was amazing to watch how the locals roamed about, in and out of their homes into their "backyards", the train tracks. They acted as if the tracks were invisible as they crossed them seamlessly to head to their neighbors. Kids ran around playing, balancing on the rails. Parents sat at their back doorsteps, cooking, eating and doing the dishes. Others used power tools to cut metal beams as they were re-modeling.

“In fact, they used the tracks as part of their back yard! Pictured here was a gentleman who emerged from his backdoor, with scissors, a mirror, and a comb. I was unsure why he was carrying those items and where he might be going. Instead of going somewhere, he casually sat on the tracks and started to trim his hair, as if it was another day.”

A day in the life

A little collection of images that represented a day in the life of the local families. Whether eating on their "back step", taking a bike out for a ride, or doing some construction work using the tracks to hold material, the locals went on about their life unfazed with the tourists roaming about.

Bowls, a red chair and a stool set out on the edge of the tracks Old bicycle leaning against a green door
Locals working on a remodel on the tracks

Is it raining?

As I was documenting the local scene, I felt water drops hitting my head. I was surprised, it's hot and humid, but I didn't think a storm was in the forecast. I looked up and didn't see any storm clouds, and nowhere else did I see rain in my view. Perplexed, I continued to look around. Only to find a man on the balcony above, just watering his plants.

Balcony railing full of potted plants where a man is watering
Black and white photo of a woman in a conical hat walking the tracks